All the flux does is make the solder wet at a lower temperature, you’re not going to hurt anything by using “extra”. You can use flux at any time, or multiple times during the process if you have trouble getting the solder to flow. When you make the final joint it helps to also have a little bit of solder on the tip of your iron (not a ton). When you put the new mcpcb in and attach the wires, you should tin the mcpcb + and – pads, and tin the wires with some new solder. If you have trouble getting it off some flux can be added. You can usually just put the iron on those jounts for about a second and then push the wire away from the mcpcb. As long as your soldering iron is good and hot, with an descent size tip, and the tip is clean. To unsolder the wires from the existing mcpcb, most of the time you don’t need flux. Should I use flux to clean wires/board or I just can solder to wires to a new pcb with flux-contain solution (like on video Kester EP256)? What is the proper way? Thank you! In fact, I need to unsolder and solder two wires. Sergx wrote: Guys, could you please tell me, I’m new to soldering – I want to replace the pcb board in the flashlight. My theory is that the “insulator” on a MCPCB is so thin that it could be damaged during resoldering ? What is used to separate the copper traces from the carrier ? Any ideas ? (no, the driver is fine, I did nothing to damage it). Everything fine when I mount it, after a couple of minutes the LEDs start flickering…. Same Problem on a second MF01mini, where I put Cree XPL-Hi. Only after half an hour and so it starts flickering. Funny thing is I test it after soldering and before putting it into the flashlight housing, no contact whatsoever. Or is there the possibility that there IS a connection inside the LED to the thermal pad ? When I connect my power supply (U/I limited) to the base and the + and – terminals, some LEDs also light up. The middle pad of the SST20 should be isolated afaik. The LEDs are working fine, but after I move it in the housing I get flickering over time, first one, then two, then more LEDs.Īs I understand the middle PAD has direct contact to the copper base, which makes sense. Secondly, it improves the quality and consistency of solder joints. Firstly, it allows you to solder chips that would otherwise be with inaccessible pads, like BGA packages, and achieve higher component density in PCB designs (since you don’t have to fit a soldering iron in between components). The board, which was a single snaking trace on the top of an aluminum substrate, did heat up as it was supposed to. There are 3 main benefits of reflow soldering. The mini worked fine, the MF01s had issues. Carl’s first attempt at making a hot plate yielded lukewarm results. After that I wanted to swap the LEDs of an Astrolux MF01s and MF01 mini also to 2700k. Worked very well, using a hot air rework station (I soldered a couple of hundred XPEs to Al PCBs for my ceiling lamp, so basically I know how it works). I accidently ordered a Fireflies E07 with the “green” SST20, and after getting some 2700k SST20 from Mouser this was my first victim. I did some resoldering of a couple of lights last week. I ran into some problems with changing emitters….
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |